Lake Hawae to Lake Wanaka

I am staying in my first back packers tonight. After traveling with the Coop family from Lake Hawae, we spent the morning eating breakfast at a local cafe. I ate my first full breakfast in a cafe. Pancakes with bananas and blueberries, delicious. New Zealand has tons of cafes by the way. Since tourism is a large part of their economy, many towns (especially the small ones), make their living off of people like myself.

After saying our goodbyes and taking a few photographs, I was soon off on my own again. I really, immensely, appreciate the Coop family's help. Although my quad is a bit sore, I have a great chance of cycling a bit in Australia. If I forced myself to cycle, I am confident I would have completed my trip without my bike.

I am off to Christchurch tomorrow. Although I am hurt, I am so very lucky to have had this opportunity to travel by bike and experience the life of a cycling tourist. I do not now when I will be 100% again, but I will continue nevertheless in my travels . After a week of rest, I will see how my leg feels.

I will travel to Australia with my Marin and begin our next adventure.


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 Lake Wanaka...mmhmm

 My reward for my first 2000 km

 My adoptive family

 My two best mates, Alexander and Phillip...thanks guys!

Lake Wanaka bakpaka

Lake Paringa to Lake Hawae

4/18
0 MILES! (BY BIKE)


From Lake Paringa, I traveled with the Coop family off to the South. We stopped for a few scenic views of the ocean and did a short walk through the forest. My first time traveling on the road by car in NZ, it really is a different way to see the world. Instead of travelling for two days to Haast, it took up just 1 hour! I watched from the rear as we passed snow capped mountans, and climbed numerous hills. I certainly, do not regret missing out on climbing a pass. 38 km north of Wanaka, we stopped at Lake Hawae.

After spending the morning playing car games, like the animal game - in which you guess what animal you are in a 20 questions format, we worked on setting up camp.

Alexander and Sven took a short hike to the top of the nearby mountain side. Denis cleared up a bit in the campervan and Phillip helped me change a gear cable. I let him make a spear with my swiss army knife as well. After setting up my camp, we played scrabble, and ate a delicous thai dish! I quickly ate mine and even had my share of seconds. The family is especially keen on thai food as they lived in Thailand for 2.5 years.

It was a very relaxing evening, but it soon proved to be a cold one. It was no more than 40 degrees f, my coldest night of camping! I anticipate that this will be the coldest of the trip...hopefully!


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 Rest stop along the beach

 Drying out the tent and fixing the bike with phillip 

 Afternoon view of lake hawae 

Quite a nice spot, eh? 

Fox Glacier to Lake Paringa

4/17
43 Miles (1246 miles total)

I decided to ride today to see how it feels after a day of rest. Unfortunately, the pain is getting worse. It did not subside today after warming up...which put me in quite a predicament. A few hundred miles from the first town that offers a bus to christchurch, I thought I might be forced to ride through the pain up Hast pass (900m) to Wanaka, which is just outside of Queenstown.

Despite my leg worries, I spent some time at the Fox Glacier. The weather was immensely rainy and windy, luckily their are bike paths in the thick rain forest leading up the the glaciers. Although cloudy, the glacier was very clear as I hiked up to it. Interestingly, is the only glacier in the world to terminate in a rainforest.

I rode through the dense tropical forest the rest of the day, crossing many one way suspension bridges. One of the highlights of the ride was Bruce Bay, just a few km from Lake Paringa. It was quite a change in scenory from the rainforest.

At Lake Paringa, I believe I found the savior of my trip. The Koop Family. If you guys are reading this, I really cannot thank you enough. Sven, Denis, Alexander, and Phillip soon adopted me into their family for a few days and helped get me to Wanaka.

After pedalling a few miles with one leg, I set up camp at Lake Paringa. I said a quick hello to Sven as I passed his camper van and began setting up camp. Physically battered and mentally exhausted, I took out my tent. Soon enough I heard a small voice, "Need any help?" Very tired, I saw this small kiwi boy gazing up at him. I quickly obliged and I began directing him with my tent supplies. More than a little interested, Alexander soon came over and we were putting my tent together. Telling them of my problem, Phillip soon came over with a little gift. "Do you think you deserve a rest," Phillip asked. "I'm getting there," I said back. He handed me over a full bottle of german beer. Soon enough I began chatting with the family. Fittingly, a double rainbow quickly appeared. I kid you not! We spent the evening talking about the west coast, eating a dinner, talking about travel, and playing a game of scrabble. They offered me lots of delicious chocolates, cookies and fresh fruit. Telling me they were heading in the same direction, they offered to take me along!

We soon headed off to bed. To top if tonight, I was awoken to a sound unlike any other and a few rattles on my tent. I opened my tent flap to see a few dark figures running across the floor. About 6 kakas, an indigenous south island parrot, had congregated into some crazy party. Like a few drug feigns, they ran around the pen grass, chasing and flapping at one another.

They were especially curious when I put on my light to take a few photos!


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 Fox glacier

 1 hour return hike from the glacier...too bad its raining 

 Through the forest 

 Just a wee church miles from nowhere 

 Bruce bay 

 The Coop family to the rescue! 

The sweet song of the kakapo...at 3 AM

A kakapo in the middle of the night...new zealands indigenous noctornal parrot 

Gillipsie Beach to Fox Glacier

4/15
15 miles (1203 miles total)

I failed to mention in my last post where I stayed tonight. After arriving in Fox Glacier, I rode another 25 k to the shore, where there was a free DOC campste. Through 12 km of windy, narrow, dirt roads I made it the beach by the moonlight and my cycling lights.

In the morning, I was quite happy with the site. Complete with a covered picnic area, I spent the morning resting and cooking massive quantities of food, tea, and chai latte. The rain subsided in the afternoon and I enjoyed a pleasant walk along the beach.

Today I recognized that my legs may need more than one day of rest. I have noticed increasing pain in my right quad. Although it appears to go away after warming up my legs, it is becoming more and more persistant. I took the day to just do some light riding to Fox Glacier.

In the morning I also spent some time talking to an Israeli and German girl who are travelling together. It was interesting listening to their future life plans as well as their travel plans in NZ. I was interested to hear the Israelis thoughts on serving in the military as I know of some Americans who have chosen to serve. They head off in the rain and I wished them the best travels.

I finished the day in Fox Glacier Holiday park. Riding in dry weather, I set up camp in the holiday park. Ready for a warm shower and another hot meal, I was more than happy to spend the $17 for the camp spot. Also, riding to the campsite I passed a few skydivers taking a group photo. All 40 of them gave me a nice cheer along the way. Although a small gesture, it sure felt great.

Overall, toady was a bit rough, despite seeing the West Coast beach. My little netbook has had its last go. A bit of a luxury, it was great while it lasted. Also, the problem with my quad has been a downer. Thirdly, if you ever tour here...I would not suggest camping in Fox Glacier. The weather changes so frequently and it is always pretty nasty. I think it rained five separate times over the two days here. Finally, the sandflies are nasty litte insects. I have experienced nothing like them...They are like knats, they will swarm you, but they have a bite like a mosquito sting. The worst part about them is there are so many! No matter what you do, there will be another swarm ready to hunt you down.

On that note, I hope for a better day tomorrow.

 West coast beach 

 Self shot in my other grey shirt 

 Look! Mount Cook in the background. 

 Wild cow crossing 

 Fox glacier in the background 

Harihari to Fox Glacier

4/14
70 miles (1188 miles total)

I began the day cycling through flat terrain bordered by many mountains. I stopped in Harihari for some hot chocolate and bluberry muffin. I enjoyed speaking to a few locals about te ride and the dry weather so far. Little did I know....

I continued the day, eventually climbing over Mount Hercules, slowly making my way to Franz Josef. The road was complete with great views of river flats, mountain peaks all around. Bellbirds broke the silence with their distinct calls. Each saddle came with a spectacular descent through the thick native rainforest.

I came into Franz Glacier, after cycling for a few hours in the rain. It is afterall a rainforest...and the west coast! Compared the the East, the West gets a few meters of rain each year, which is huge considering the East gets around half a meter, if not less. Since I came this far, I decided to see the glacier. My first time seeing a glacier, it really was astounding. Even more, was the marks it left over the last few thousand years. A huge boulder field, with cliffs on every side, cut in by the glacier. The glacier has slowly been receding over the past thousand years from natural and anthropologic forces. Most people think of greenland and antartica when they think of glaciers. Bobbing up and down in the oceans...This glacier is unlike anything I had ever heard. The glacier does not terminate in a rainforest like fox glacier, but it sure comes close!

Compelled to stay at Fox Glacier...I tried out some night riding. With no street lights, you might not think that this is the safest way of travel, but hundred of cycling tourists do this to make better use of their time, avoid traffic, and to avoid the heat. I did this also to avoid the rain. However, in hindsight I still would have stay in Fran Josef. Using my pedallors paradise, I misread the altitudes of the profiles, and thought they were just 100 m hills. Instead, I rode three or four 200- 300 m hills...at night, at times in a cloud. Cycling at night was very exhilarating however. The moon seemed just a bit brighter, the air a bit crisper, and the hills were that much more rewarding. After a few hours of riding, I arrived in Fox Glacier and soon set up camp for the night. It really was one exhausting day!

I just want to note, I do not condone riding at night without lights. Always take the necessary safety precautions. I ride with bright yellow jerseys and panniers, always accompanied by a flashing rear red light and two lights on the front.


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 New day!

 Think I can get used to this weather

 Side shot

 Welcome to Glacier country

 Glacier view from a distance

 Close up of Franz Josef

 Dusk

 Heading through the night

Greymouth to Harihari

4/13
72 miles (1118 miles total)

After stocking up on supplies in Greymouth, I rode through the city to head off to Harihari. The ride was initially very flat, but I had to overcome a few hills after I passed the last large town before my remote ride, Hotitika. Hotitika, know for its Wildfoods festical, in which the gastronomically curious feast on huhu grubs, wasp larvae ice cream among other interesting insect treats. I explored the small city a bit, venturing into town and exploring the West Coast Historical museum. The west coast is very famous for its green stone. The museum discusses the historical significance among the Maori people. It also has an in depth focus on the immigration to New Zealand during the gold rush.

I passed through Ross, known for the largest gold nugget found in NZ. I ended my day by cycling through vast thick forest, ultimately ending at lake ianthe, just a few km outside Harihari. Although the night turned out to be a rainy one, I met a nice Chilean couple who are waiting for residency in Australia. As I ventured on the dock, I peered into the clear water to see my first wild freshwater eel! What a sight...apparently, since they are illegal to hunt, there are massive quantities in the lack. A food prized by maori, they have an interesting mating ritual in which they travel hundreds of miles out into the Pacific ocean to breed. If they do not breed, they live out to 60 years in the lakes!


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 Right outside of greymouth

 The booming city of greymouth

 Hokitika, home of the wildfoods

 Greenstone Maori pieces

 Original caravan to the west coast...too bad they didn't have bikes

 Through the forest

 Dinosaur trees!

Lakeside camping

My fellow neighbors for the night!